Oscar Heyman & Brothers
Oscar Heyman Bros. Ltd. is one of the longest standing family run jewellery businesses in America. For over 100 years they have produced some of the most exceptional crafted jewellery for established Maison’s from Tiffany, Cartier and Black, Starr and Frost, to Van Cleef and Arpels.
The founder and namesake of the company, Oscar Heyman, emigrated from Latvia to New York City in 1906. Before this move, he worked in Kharkov in his great uncle’s jewellery workshop which produced jewellery for Faberge. Upon his arrival in New York he was the first non-French jeweller to work at the newly opened Cartier New York branch.
From his apprenticeship with his great uncle, Oscar and his brothers Nathan and Harry, had acquired advanced technical skills, particularly working in the new metal, platinum which was becoming increasingly popular in the American jewellery market.
In October 1912, an issue of the trade magazine, ‘Jeweller’s Circular’ announced the opening of ‘Oscar Heyman Bros. Inc’ at 49 Maiden Lane, New York. Oscar was the eldest of nine siblings that would eventually all work within the family business. He initially ran the workshop with his brothers Nathan and Harry, and later the younger brothers, Louis, William and George joined. Their sisters Lena and Frances were also involved in the administration of the business. Today a third generation of Heyman family continues to run the business which now produces fine jewellery under their own name.
Their reputation for advanced technical skill within the trade grew swiftly. In 1939 they were chosen to create the intricate ‘Serti Mysterieux’ jewels for Van Cleef and Arpel’s new US branch. The complex setting that has become the brand’s signature was intensely demanding on time, labour and skill, all of which Oscar Heyman Bros excelled. This important commission proved successful and the beginning of a long and fruitful partnership between the two companies throughout the 20th century.
Oscar Heyman Bros embraced innovation, tirelessly pushing boundaries within jewellery production. Between 1916-1942 they patented seven new processes for the design and making of jewellery.
Style/Major collections
Oscar Heyman Bros is a powerhouse in jewellery production. Confident in their technical ability, as a brand they were happy to remain anonymously behind the scenes, creating some of the greatest jewellery designs of the 20th century. The craftsmanship of Oscar Heyman Bros is responsible for creating the most iconic jewellery designed and retailed by Cartier, Van Cleef and Arpels and Marcus & Co.
In the 1939 World Fair held in New York, all but one of the jewels on display in the glittering ‘House of Jewellery’ were constructed by Oscar Heyman Bros.
They stood out from other manufacturers for their ability to work platinum and their enthusiastic inclusion of the increasingly fashionable semi-precious stones, such as cats-eye, chrysoberyl, moonstones and Siberian amethysts, together with diamonds and pearls.
One of their most iconic designs was the ‘Pansy’ clip earrings, which they initially produced for other brands to retail such as Marcus & Co. but later sold under their own company name. A pair of multi-coloured and mixed metal ‘Pansy’ ear clips sold at Sotheby’s New York in 2014 for 33,750 USD. The beautifully crafted earrings sold well over their estimate of 18,000-22,000 USD. The clips are a prime example of Oscar Heyman Bros skill in seamlessly mixing metals, combining 18k yellow gold and platinum, together with diamonds, citrines, amethysts and rubies.
Oscar Heyman Bros’ high quality settings ensure that any piece created will stand the test of time.