Mellerio dits Meller

‘Mellerio dits Meller’ is one of the oldest and longest running family jewellery businesses in Europe. The Mellerio family came from humble beginnings but have been dubbed ‘Jeweller to the Queens’.

In 1515 the first family member emigrated to France from their native Italian village in the Vigezzo Valley. From trading precious objects, the Mellerio family have built a now international jewellery Empire.

The business was officially established in 1613. The firm was favoured by Marie de Medici, then Regent of France. She granted royal protection to the Mellerio family. This gave them the right to trade free from administration restrictions. This immunity lasted 150 years, and was renewed by each King of France until Louis XVI.

Jeweller to the Queens

The Mellerio’s continued to gain French Royal Patronage. In 1780, Jean-Baptiste Mellerio (1765-1850) sold a cameo bracelet to Marie Antoinette. The bracelet was designed by Jean-Baptist himself, and contained seven large cameos carved with relief profiles of various Ancient Roman Emperors. The cameos were set in ruby clusters to create a ‘lux pauvre’ (expensive simplicity) look that the extravagant queen relished.

French Revolution

Unusually the Mellerio family weathered the social upheaval of the French Revolution successfully by returning to their families native village in rural Italy. François Mellerio returned from Craveggia to open a shop in Paris on Rue de Coq-Sainte-Honore.

No.9 Rue de la Paix

After training in Italy under the tutorage of famed Milanese jeweller, Manini, Francois Mellerio quickly impressed a new generation of French nobility. With the help of Empress Josephine’s lady-in-waiting, Comtesse de Segur, who engineered a meeting between the jewel hungry Empress and Francois. In 1815, together with his brother, Jean-Jacques, the Mellerio’s were the first jewellers to open their doors on Rue de la Paix. Today the 15th generation of Mellerio family still run their business from No.9 Rue de la Paix.

In 1830 the brothers were appointed official suppliers to the Royal family by Louis Philippe I. Throughout the 19th century the brothers were joined by their sons in the business. Together the family exhibited, to much acclaim, in Universal Exhibitions held in Paris, Vienna and London.

Rock Garden Tiara

Self-professed ‘Jeweller to Queens’, Mellerio dits Meller have produced lavish tiaras that have adorned the heads of European Royalty. Impressed by a diamond and pearl tiara shaped into shells she saw at the 1867 Paris Exhibition, Queen Isabella II bought the headpiece for her daughter, the Infanta Isabella of Spain, for her wedding in 1868. Known as the Rock Garden Tiara, it was the first piece of jewellery to use platinum.

At 1867 Exhibition the Melliero’s won a gold medal for their innovative naturalistic style. The key piece was an exceptional Peacock Brooch. The 1867 display also attracted the attention of Victor Emmanuel II of Italy who commissioned the ‘Wild Flower and Laurel Branch Tiara’ for his future daughter-in-law, Margaret of Savoy. She wore the piece on her wedding to his son, Umberto I.

Coupe des Mousquetaires

The firm adapted their style throughout the 20th century, from the Garland style through Art Nouveau to Art Deco, but they never compromised quality and always sort the new.

In 1955 they were commissioned to create the ‘Ballon d’or’ trophy and later in 1981 the French Tennis Federation commissioned them to make the ‘Coupe des Mousquetaires’.

In October 2013 the firm celebrated it’s 400th year anniversary. The Maison still boasts a Mellerio family member as director. In 2017 Lure-Isabelle Mellerio became President and Artistic Director.

Fashion Collaborations

Mellerio designs show an awareness of history, coupled with a drive for innovation. Long before it became common practice to collaborate as a way to bring fresh perspectives, as well as media attention, Mellerio was forging alliances with other artisans, like Boucheron and Rene Lalique, to create dazzling new pieces. In the 1950s they collaborated with Fashion Houses, Balenciaga, Dior and Patou.

Innovation is the driving force for Mellerio family, who have acquired several patents during the firms life-time. In 1854, the Mellerio’s applied for a patent for their ‘Flexible Stem’: a light and subtle jewellery mechanism displayed in pieces at the 1855 Paris Universal Exhibition.

The Mellerio Cut

In 1953, Guy Mellerio patented the ‘Garaitures Decoratives pour Ongle’ (Decorative Nail Fittings). This technique allowed gemstones to be fitted to fingernails. It was a luxurious extension to the growing vogue for painted fingernails.

In 2015 the family patented the unique gemstone cut. The Mellerio Cut features 57 facets, specially arranged to increase the natural brilliance of the stone. The unique shape designed around an oval within an ellipse, was used for the watch faces of the company’s first collection. The watches were launched in 1993, to celebrate the firms 200th anniversary in residence at No. 9 Rue de la Paix.