JAR

Known as JAR, Joel Arthur Rosenthal has been heralded as ‘the Faberge of our time’. After graduating from Harvard the US born designer moved to Paris. He had a brief career owner of a needle point supplier to Valentino and Hermes.

Moving onto jewellery design, elements of needle point remain, particularly in his delicate ‘Thread’ rings.

The Faberge of Our Time

JAR is a master at mystery. He does not advertise, but has successfully become a cult figure. His boutique on the Place Vendôme has no window displays and is by appointment only. Working with Swiss and French craftsmen, JAR’s workshop only produces 70-80 pieces a year and each of these are one-offs designed with a particularly buyer in mind. JAR reserves the right to refuse to sell if his feels that his work will not be worn in accordance with his vision.

Limited Supply

As a result of this limited supply and rarefied attitude, JAR pieces rarely reach the secondary market, and if they do they typically sell for more than the initial price. Only 62 pieces had been sold at auction at Christies and only 18 at Sotheby’s in 2006.

JAR prefers to use dark alloys, such as aluminium, titanium and steel, to enhance and focus on the colour of the gems, rather than the traditional shiny precision metals used in jewellery settings.

Natural Forms

His designs predominantly revolve around natural forms. With flowers being a favourite motif. A master colourist, JAR has specialised in the pave technique to assemble subtle or dramatic colour gradations within each of his one of a kind pieces.

To date JAR pieces have only been on display to the public twice.

The first exhibition held in London, 2003 was sensational. 400 works were displayed in vitrines in a darkened room. JAR insisted visitors be given torches to find their way through the exhibition so the jewels emerged from the darkness.

In 2013, The Metropolitan Museum of Art held ‘Jewels by JAR’.