Hermès
Hermes is best known for its handbags and leather goods rather than as jewellery house. But, under the directorship of Pierre Hardy, Hermes has launched a new ‘Haute Bijouterie’ collection that is revolutionising the boundary between utility and ornament, high and low culture, and fashion, art and jewellery.
Founded in 1837 by Thierry Hermes (1801-1878) initially as a harness maker, the company soon developed into the go-to leather goods supplier for the nobility. The Tsar of Russia and The Prince of Wales were both loyal clients.
Equestrian Iconography
Since the release of the ‘Chaine d’ancre’ bracelet in 1938 Hermes’ jewellery has revolved around equestrian iconography, from the iconic link chains, to whips and bridals. Helmet Newton wryly described the House’s jewellery as “the most luxurious and expensive sex shop in the world”.
Hermes jewellery certainly contains a sexual undertone. Hermes described the ‘Fouet’ diamond necklace as a “whip [that] does not command but amorously cajoles. The whip is tamed and force transformed into beauty. Pleasure is the watch word, leavened by a lashing of wry humour”. The delicate tapered band is pave set with 3,669 diamonds.
Freedom in Chains
Pierre Hardy’s latest collection for Hermes,‘Enchainements Libres’ (Freedom in Chains), launched in 2019 is a homage to the chain. In keeping with all Hermes designs Hardy has drawn on the companies origins; playing with equestrian accessories combined with his personal passion for dance.
Pierre Hardy summarises: “The whole collection is designed around the body. Far from the jewellery of former times, which obstructed movement, these pieces are designed for modern lifestyles. They dance in unison with the bodies that wear them”.