Gübelin

In 1854 Mauritz Breitschmid opened a small watch making shop in Pfistergasse, Lucerne, Switzerland.

In 1886 Breitschmid’s apprentice, Eduard Jakob Gubelin (b.1861) married his daughter, Bertha-Sophia. Gubelin joined his father-in-law as a business partner. The partnership proved successful. By 1899 Gubelin took over the business completely, renaming it House of Gubelin.

Swiss Origins

Gubelin opened a large boutique in the former Hotel d’Angleterre on the Schwanenplatz overlooking Lake Lucerne in 1903. Over 160 years later, the brand’s flagship store remains in the same location. In addition, the House of Gubelin opened boutiques in Zurich, Geneva, and St Moritz.

Passion for Gemmology

Eduard Jakob’s son, Eduard Mortiz inherited his father’s passion for excellence and for gemmology. In 1923 he opened a gemmological laboratory. In the same year the House of Gubelin opened a workshop so the house could create and authenticate all of the jewellery they produced.

By 1945, a third generation of the Gubelin family took over the running of the business. Eduard Mortiz’s sons Walter and Eduard Josef assumed joint management of the firm, each overseeing a different aspect. Walter directed the daily affairs of the boutiques, while Eduard Josef managed the gemmological laboratory, becoming a pioneer in photomicrography. Through his efforts, the innermost structures of gemstones were revealed to the human eye as never before allowing more precise authentications of gemstones.

Far East Expansion

In 2010, Gubelin opened a gem lab in Hong Kong. Three years later, in 2013 Gubelin also opened a private salon for their growing number of clients in the far east. In the same year an academy was opened in Hong Kong teaching a new generation the intricacies of gemmology.

Today the 6th generation of Gubelin family members run the business. The House of Gubelin continues to make and repair watches as a nod to their origins. Raphael and his wife, Wilvy Sy Gubelin are directors and continue to pioneer within the gemmological and fine jewellery industry, both in Europe and the Far East.

The Deep Sea

Inspired by the brand’s philosophy, Gubelin’s recent collections are focused on the natural properties of coloured stones.

‘The Deep Sea’ line revolves around aquatic motifs. It includes the ‘Glowing Jelly Fish’ ring, the form of which was taken from Eduard Josef’s microphotographs. A pear-shaped 3.78ct Kashmir sapphire is encircled by a gelatinous-like halo of pear-shaped diamonds. The abstract, asymmetry of biomorphic forms are also the focus for the ‘Sea Anemone’ and ‘Drops of Water’ lines.

‘The Mystical Garden’ focuses on the mystical powers of the colour green. The fairy-tale troupe of the enchanted forest is embodied in the ‘Ornament of Flowers’ and ‘Ancient Path’ collections. In both the verdant green of Columbian emeralds is celebrated.

The Glowing Fire

‘The Glowing Fire’ collections focus on the intense fiery tones of the ruby. In both the ‘Sparks of Fire’ and Glowing Ember lines the dance of flames is embodied. Modelled on the concentric circles of flickering flames and burning hot coals in the heart of a fire is a spectacular necklace. Set on a white gold chain it features a series of nine pear-shaped Myanmar rubies surrounded by coronets of 383 white diamonds.

As the name suggests the ‘Sparks of Fire’ collection is full of life and movement. The rings, set in warm rose gold, have little sparks of colour with brilliant cut tourmalines, rubies and tanzanite dancing on the finger.

The House of Gubelin continues to set a high precedent in contemporary fine jewellery. Each design has been engineered to celebrate and exhibit the natural qualities of the high quality stones used.