Gaston Lafitte
Gaston-Eugene-Omar Lafitte established his eponymous jewellery business in Paris at the turn of the 19th century. He soon gained a reputation for his outstanding creations in the blossoming Art Nouveau Style.
Lafitte’s workshop excelled in intricate metal working and enamelling techniques, particularly ‘Plique-a-jour’. Literally translated from the French, ‘Plique-a-jour’ means: “Letting the daylight in”. The technique was first developed by Benvenuto Cellini in the 15th century but had a revival at the turn of the 20th century with jewellers such as Rene Lalique, and Gaston Lafitte, championing the complicated technique for its ethereal visual effects. The delicate translucency created by the backless enamel panels was a popular aesthetic in the Art Nouveau period for its effective simulation of the gossamer translucently of insects wings or dewy petals.
In the spirit of Art Nouveau, Lafitte’s reoccurring motifs were frequently drawn from organic forms and the ideal ‘femme fatal’ figure features heavily in his designs. An exceptional example is he elegantly curved bodies of female figures, dressed loosely in airy dresses and framed in the iridescent rainbow of enamelled wings are another key motif of Lafitte’s brooches and pendants.
Although there is very little literature and few anecdotes that survives about the personal life or character of this Parisian jeweller; all that does remain visible to us are the intricate pieces he created that are a testament to his skill.
Style/Major Collections
Gaston Lafitte’s work embodied the ethos of Art Nouveau. His pieces are full of movement, merging the natural with magic and mythology. From brooches or rings to large pendants, Gaston Lafitte’s jewellery frequently includes sinuous lines such as those of curling, vine-like branches with scrolling leaves, dripping with diamonds, pearls or opals like water droplets.
The artistry involved in Lafitte’s designs have made his pieces withstand the passing of time and although his work is very much of the Art Nouveau period, they continue to attract high prices as collectables. In 2008, an iconic Gaston Lafitte enamel and gold brooch in the form of an elegant winged female figure sold at Christie’s London for £20,000, well above its estimate of £6000-8000.