Just a Nail

After graduating, Cipullo worked first for David Webb and then for Tiffany & Co.. By 1969 he had moved to Cartier. After only a few months working for Cartier, New York, Cipullo produced his now iconic ‘Love Bangle’. This design was shortly followed by the equally revolutionary ‘juste un clou’ (Just a Nail) in 1971.

Cipullo is the only designer privileged with having his name included on his pieces alongside Cartier’s signature. Despite his success, he continued working for Cartier for only a few more years. In 1974 he left to continue designing independently.

Hollywood Commissions

In the same year he was awarded the prestigious Coty American Fashion Critics Award for jewellery. He was not limited to commercial designs. In 1973, while still working for Cartier, he was commissioned to produce jewellery for ‘The Exorcist’, a film staring Ellen Burstyn. The pendant she appears in was created by Cipullo.

Although Cipullo was Italian born, his work, and working ethos, embodied the modern values of his adopted country, America. In 1978 he was invited by the American Gem Society to create a collection of jewellery showcasing gemstones minded in the United States of America. The 31 pieces included Sapphires from Montana, diamonds from Alaska and Turquoise from Arizona. After a tour of the country, the collection was donated to the Smithsonian Museum.

Function and Design

In his own words: “Design has to be part function, that’s the secret to success. When you have function and design, married together, you always have a successful item. It is not always easy to come up with, but when it comes, it’s wonderful.”

Cipullo’s work was indeed wonderful in its simplicity. His ability to transform a common place, functional object into a piece of jewellery echoed the work of Modernist artists that also moved to New York city from Europe in the post war era. Like Marcel Duchamp’s ready-made sculptures, Cipullo’s use of nails in jewellery toppled tradition, blurring the lines between ‘high’ and ‘low’ materials.

Unfortunately, Cipullo’s career was cut short. In 1984, he suffered a double heart attack. He died aged only 48.

The Love Bangle

Aldo Cipullo’s work revolutionised the definition of commercial jewellery and women’s relationship to fine jewellery. Cartier is indebted to Cipullo’s innovations. His ‘Love Bangle’ and ‘Juste un Clou’ (Just a Nail) bracelet modernised the Parisian jewellery house and have now become synonymous with Cartier.

The ‘Love Bangle’ comes in two parts that are screwed together around the wearers wrist with a special tool supplied with each bangle to secure each half. The concept of two parts becoming one in a strong bond, is deeply sentimental and the sleek design allows the piece to be worn consistently. Being semi-permanent, the bangle did not fit with the traditional way women interacted with jewellery. Previously women matched jewellery sets to different outfits, for different occasions. Cipullo’s innovation was not only deeply sentimental, the concept behind the piece was highly modern.

Originally made from sterling silver plated in gold and priced at $250, the bangles are now made from 18k yellow gold. The bangle continues to be one of Cartier’s best selling pieces and has been joined with a collection of matching hoop earrings and rings all adorned with the iconic nail head groves. In 1979 Cartier released a diamond version.

Famous Admirers

The bangle has been an enduring favourite with celebrities, from Elizabeth Taylor to Kylie Jenner sporting the love token. The simple outline and masculine motif has made the piece popular with men as well. Similarly the curved nail of the ‘Juste un Clou’ bracelet has an androgynous look that appeals to both men and women.

In the years after Cartier, Cipullo produced designs for both men and women for the highly successful and innovative costume jewellery manufacturer Trifari.