(1837-1901) Victorian Period
Queen Victoria ruled for an impressive sixty three years and was the longest reigning British monarch before the current Queen Elizabeth II surpassed her. During this long period (1837-1901), fashion, and subsequently the accompanying jewellery, frequently morphed to keep up with social changes. During the early years of Victoria’s reign delicate repoussé metal-work framing a locket containing a treasured lock of hair was typical of the Romantic sentiment of the Queen and the nation in the early years of her marriage to Prince Albert. In contrast the jewellery after Albert’s death became austere, with large stones of sombre colours or cameos were placed in heavy settings. Then in the last years of Victoria’s rule jewellery transformed again, becoming lighter and smaller as practicality and affordability superseded ornate aristocratic tastes with the increased leisure activities enjoyed by women in the growing middle classes. The design of brooch clasps is a particularly clear example of this change: from a single pin on a simple ‘c’ clasp to more elaborate safety mechanisms.
Influence of the Industrial Revolution
In addition to being fast-changing, Victorian fashion became accessible beyond class boundaries in a way that it had never been before. This fast pace and accessibility was, in large part, a result of the Industrial Revolution’s increased mechanisation. The effects of industrialisation can be seen particularly in the technical possibilities within the jewellery industry. For example techniques for cutting and setting stones advanced dramatically, from the simply polished cabochon and flat rose cut stones used in the Georgian period to the Old Mine and European cuts which closely resemble the modern round brilliant cut. The development of electric lights had a significant hand to play in the development of stone cuts and jewellery settings as no longer could a flawed stone glitter in flickering candle light. The clear exposing light of an electric bulb illuminated the room making flaws and facets embarrassingly visible.
The Emerging Markets
Moreover, from the invention of the telegraph and the rise of railway networking, Victorian Britain gave rise to a more connected world. People were able to take note of the tastes and designs of the aristocrats and socialites of the day, and replication of these trends came quickly after. The emerging middle classes provided a new market, creating a demand for the manufacture of more accessible jewellery. Naturally, trends in jewellery were just as varied as the new consumer.
Exotic Gemstones
The growth of the British Empire brought an influx of exotic gemstones into the market, such as diamonds from South Africa and sapphires from the Far East, particularly Kashmir and Burma. Semi-precious stones, such as onyx, jet, garnets and amethysts also became hugely popular, particularly in Grand Period jewellery.
Victorian Subperiods
It is impossible to succinctly encapsulate what is meant by Victorian ‘style’. In effort to begin to do so jewellers tend to split the Victorian era into three subcategories:
I. The early, or Romantic period, which began roughly around Queen Victoria’s coronation in 1837 and ended with the death of Prince Albert in 1961.
II. The middle, often referred to as the Grand Period, went up to 1880.
III. The late Victorian, or Aesthetic period, which coincided with the Belle Epoque in continental Europe as well as the birth of Art Nouveau.
In all of these periods nature, particularly floral motifs, loomed large in the design of ornate sprigs and foliate settings for stones, as well as the inclusion of birds and insects like butterflies and dragonflies.